Imagine floating on your surfboard, paddling towards large breaking waves, duckdiving, surfacing, positioning yourself for take-off, paddling really quickly, and then pushing yourself up for that great ride.  It is hard work, but totally rewarding. Now imagine that you only have one arm... how hard does that all become?  Or would you think that it was impossible?

 

Many people may of heard that there is a girl who surfs the international tour with only one arm, but few may know how it all came about.  The incredible story of Bethany Hamilton has been well documented over the years.  However, this month it’s going to go global as Hollywood releases its new movie about what happened to Bethany, starring AnnaSophia Robb, Helen Hunt and Dennis Quaid.

 

Early morning on 31st October 2003 Bethany was surfing with her father and brother out in her home waters of Hawaii.  It was then that a 13ft tiger shark appeared and bit off her left arm.  It was a miracle that she survived, as she lost more than 60% of her blood and had to undergo extensive surgery. However, Bethany’s story is about the shark attack.  It’s about how she overcame what could have not only ended her life, but her way of life.  

 

Within a month of the attack, she was back in the water, working out how to surf again.  With a few adaptions she was doing brilliantly and was even competing in a Open Women’s contest 2 months later... and that was only the beginning.  She has gone even further and continues to surf even today.

 

For more details about the film check out the official site at www.soulsurferthemovie.com 
 

New month, new start and it’s going to be a good month.  Even if we are desk bound, longing for a surf holiday, we can munch our way through the tasty menu of surf contests coming our way.

 

Event: The Drug Aware Pro

Location: Margaret River, Australia

Rating: Prime

Dates: 4 - 10 April

Prize money: $250,000

Last year’s winner: Josh Kerr (AUS)

 

 

Event: O’Neill Coldwater Classic Scotland

Location: Thurso, Scotland

Rating: 6 Star

Dates: 13 - 19 April

Prize money: $145,000

Last year’s winner:  Royden Bryson (ZFA)

 

 

Event: Rip Curl Pro Bells Beach

Location: Torquay, Victoria, Australia

Rating: WCT

Dates: 19 - 30 April

Prize money: $425,000

Last year’s winner: Kelly Slater (USA)

Website: http://live.ripcurl.com/index.php?bells2011

 

 

Name: Frederick Patacchia

Nickname: Freddy P

Born: 15 December 1981 (29 years old)

Hometown: North Shore, Oahu Hawaii, USA

Stance: Goofy

Sponsors: Quiksilver, and Bud Light

 

If your school backed onto one of the best waves in the world, would you dream about your studies or something else entirely?  Frederick Patacchia, otherwise known as Freddy P, grew up along the legendary North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. He went to the infamous Sunset Beach Elementary School that is across the road from Pipeline... so it was no wonder that he would be graduating into professional surfing.

 

In Hawaii it can seem like every other surfer you meet is either turning Pro or has already competed for years.  Freddy P was set from an early age to compete, coming from a surfing family and with the 7 mile miracle as his playground.  There was a lot of hype surrounding Freddy P’s launch into the professional world, as he was quickly snapped up by Quiksilver when he was fresh out of school.  However, things don’t always run as smoothly as people may think in the professional world.

 

Freddy P started off on the World Qualifying Series (WQS), the notoriously hard system that requires surfers to compete throughout the year to gain ranking points.  The more contests a surfers competes in, and the better they do, the higher the points- and the higher the world ranking.  Freddy P came out blazing, but his fire soon turned to just smoldering ashes.  He got stuck on the WQS for 3 years, trying to amass enough points to reach the ASP’s World Championship Tour (WCT).  

 

Finally, in 2005, Freddy P reached the WCT dreamtour, fulfilling Quiksilver’s and the media’s faith in his edgy new school style of surfing.  His first year on tour was a success, as he finished an impressive 14th in the world and won the Rookie of the Year award.  The industry took notice.

 

Over the next 6 years the Hawaiian goofy footer performed well under pressure, achieving good end of year results. Some second place podium finishes in Tahiti and Indonesia enabled him to achieve his highest rankings in 2006 and 2008, when he finished 12th in the world.  Yet an elite tour win has still remained elusive.

 

 

Last year Freddy finished 19th in the world, solidifying his return to his 7th year on the dreamtour.  His sponsorship contract had been renewed by Quiksilver, and he continued to have lucrative presenting deals throughout the year.  In 2010 he presented the emotional annual Surfer Poll Awards, that paid tribute to his friend and fellow Hawaiian, the legendary Andy Irons.

 

So far this year Freddy P has done well at the Quiksilver Pro Gold Coast, finishing a healthy 13th place.  However, he will be out of action for at least a little while, as he damaged his knee whilst surfing at home in Hawaii.  So the jury is out on how he will fare over the coming season, but he can apply for an ASP injury wildcard if need be, and a little determination goes a long way.  So watch this space for how his recovery goes.

 

Check out Freddy’s style in Quiksilver’s boardshort advert to see what the hype is all about.

 
 

In an era that witnessed the beginning of environmentalism, the fading of the hippy movement, the introduction of disco, the birth of individualism and the Watergate scandal, there was a new generation of surfing coming to life.

 

Back when Kelly Slater was just a nipper, there were big changes happening in the surf world.  Along with the big hair, love of gold medallions and moustaches, the 1970s was the beginning of the professional surf industry as we know it today. Instead of the ‘free love’ style of the 60s, where surfing was considered a ‘beach-bum’ occupation at best, in the 70s there was a group of surfers who radically changed the world’s perspective on what it meant to be a surfer.

 

 

In Hawaii there would be annual surf contests inviting the best local surfers to compete for very small prize winnings, but for a lot of respect.  Very rarely would foreigners be given access to these events, and even if they were, they didn’t do particularly well.  However, a group of fired-up Aussies and one bulshy South African were set to change all that, and in the process, become the new superstars of the day.

 

Most modern day surfers would have seen iconic pictures of Hawaiian Gerry Lopez riding Pipeline on his infamous red Lightning Bolt shortboard.  Lopez represented the height of the surf industries success, respected around the world. However, it would be the Aussies Mark ‘MR’ Richards, Wayne ‘Rabbit’ Bartholomew and South African Shaun Tomson who were to propel surfing to a new level.  Just as the shortboard was enabling surfers to perform new moves and go deeper into the barrel than ever seen before, the new crew were about to push surfing into a new arena.

 

The boys entered contest after contest in Hawaii.  They would win, give speeches, interviews and even cheeky articles. They started treating surfing as a business where promotion was key.  Memorable board designs, primary coloured clothing and distinctive photographs would circulate in the latest edition of Surfer magazine.  The groms of the world took notice, and started to emulate the skater, fast paced style that the new school were developing.  Gone were the days of the longboard it seemed, but it was a massive period of growth, when surf brands such as Quiksilver, Rip Curl,  and Hurley were established. 

 

Australia, South Africa, Southern California and of course, the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii were the spots that cemented the new slash style of surfing.  The new school were gaining the media’s attention and in the process created the building blocks for what we now know today as the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP).  The boys literally created the job title of Professional Surfer.

 

Despite all the teething problems and the anger that the new school stirred up in Hawaii, MR, Bartholomew and Tomson changed the surf scene forever.  They changed the perception of surfing into something that was profitable and that could be a professional sport for the first time in history.

 

Take a look at the clip below of Shaun Tomson during his time in Hawaii for a glimpse into the North Shore world of the 1970s.
 

Sion Milosky, Pipeline © Joliphotos.com

The surfing world is massively creative.  Every year we watch new lines being drawn down a barrel, aerials thrown out in free surf and competitive sessions, and fresh changes to the ASP’s world tour.  One of the most innovative areas of the sport is often one of the most overlooked- the coverage.  However, things are about to change.

 

Thousands of people wake up each morning to the latest surfing developments through the media source of Surfersvillage. Covering events the world over, Surfersvillage plays a huge part in keeping surfers informed about what matters to the community.  So it makes sense that the organization is putting together awards this year to honour the best in the industry.


Aileen’s © Mikey Smith

 

Surfersvillage has created the following surf categories:

 

 

Carnage at Waimea © Mike McGinnis

It is all about recognizing who has really contributed to how we think, learn and discover about our surfing world; plus who is using the new media arts and sciences to take surfing to the masses.  It will be interesting to see who is nominated and voted for by the public, and then who will be selected by the actual Surfersvillage judging panel.

 

To be part of the voting or to submit your work, check out www.surfersvillageawards.com to have your say.  Then keep an eye out for when things really heat up in Autumn, as the award ceremony is set for October 2011.