Sometimes when you hear surfers talk about their favourite breaks it can sound like gibberish.  They use all sorts of strange words and sounds to describe what their wave was like and how good it felt to surf it.  ‘The point’, ‘the reef’ or ‘the break’ are used all the time, but often without any explanation for a newbie surfer.  So here’s a quick break down of what each surf break means:

 

Along with being a legendary 90s Keanu Reeves and Patrick Swayze film, a point break is where swell wraps around a cliff, rock or reef formation creating staggered (usually long) waves that are generally very consistent.  Perfect examples of this would be Jeffreys Bay, South Africa, Raglan, New Zealand, and our very own Riberia D’Ilhas in Ericeria, Portugal. As point breaks are created by large land or reef formations, they tend to create some of the most consistent waves as you know when and where a wave is going to form and start breaking.

 

No one knows how many there are of these in the world as the changing of a tide or season creates and destroys whether a reef break works.  The expression ‘reef break’ covers both an actual coral reef that causes a wave to be forced up out of the ocean, as well as rock bottom breaks.  Along with being incredibly beautiful, reef breaks create clean, normally nicely shaped waves, and will be consistently the same formation depending on the swell direction.  

 

Reef breaks can be incredibly dangerous if big sets are coming through, if the tide is low, as the breaking wave can break on only a foot of water, or even dry reef.  However, reef breaks can also be the safest of breaks as the majority of them will have a ‘channel’ or ‘shoulder’ where you would paddle out to the line up, or can sit when a bigger wave comes through. The channel is where the ocean floor is deeper than the reef or rocks below, so there is nothing to force the wave up.  A homegrown example of a reef break would be the Peak at Bundoran, whereas for more tropical reef breaks, think of Hawaii’s Pipeline or Tahiti’s Teahupoo.

 

It sounds like a cheesy name for a holiday, but beach breaks are one of the best breaks to learn to surf in.  The waves found at a beach break are created by the sand of the beach on the ocean floor, so even if you touch the seabed, the sand is soft (unlike sharp reef or rock).  Beach breaks are changeable with the tides and seasons just like reef breaks, so depending on the season some spots will work, whereas others may have disappeared only to come back the next season. The changing waves are formed as the sand shifts around, so new peaks and waves can form all the time.  

 

One of the best things about beach breaks is that there is very little paddling to the wave needed.  Whereas with reef or point breaks, where often you have to paddle for a while to reach the break, beach breaks are usually breaking onto the beach.  So within a few strokes your there, and then again, and again... so your wave tally can go through the roof.  A prime example of a beach break would be Armado in Lagos, Portugal, or La Graviere in Hossegor, France.
 

Golden sand beaches stretch for miles in either direction as surfers paddle into glassy backlit waves at sunset.  Silhouetted in the jade and opal waves, you’d be forgiven for wishing that it could be you in the surf.  Welcome to feeling humbled and jealous of the surfers in the ocean at Hossegor, France, one of the best beach breaks on the planet.

 

For decades surfers have travelled to Hossegor for the surf, the beaches and of course, the parties.  It is a lot of fun, but can be a bit difficult to know where to go if you are looking to learn to surf or improve your technique.  So instead of being stuck on the shore just watching, Quiksilver have had a genius idea of creating a surf house with a difference in Hossegor.  Here are a few of our favourite reasons for staying at the Quiksilver Boardriders Surf House this summer:

 

The surf house is set up for trips from a Saturday to a Saturday for 7 nights, so there are 6 days are filled with learning to surf or improving your surfing.  You learn in the amazing waves around Hossegor, Seignosse and Capbreton, but better still each week will have different professional surfers teaching you and hanging out.

 

The surf house looks like it should be on MTV cribs.  The Landes style house has been kitted out with all the best gear and gadgets to keep you entertained with your new friends when you’re not surfing.

 

This one is pretty much to be expected when you visit the south western region of France.  “Les Landes” is infamous for its world class waves and it is Hossegor that holds the Quiksilver Pro France every September as part of the ASP’s world tour.

 

Hossegor lies only 30 minutes drive north of Biarritz, and about 1 hour and 30 minutes drive south of Bordeaux, so getting there is easy when flying to either of the airports.  Quiksilver provides a shuttle bus from Biarritz Airport or Bayonne Train Station each Saturday, so you can arrive all relaxed for your first surf session.

 

When in Rome- or rather, in France you need to eat, drink and be merry.  Breakfast, lunch and dinner are all provided for as part of your boardriders week.  Plus the house is only 150 metres from Hossegor beach and a 10 minute walk from the town centre.  So it is your duty to explore the excellent bars and clubs in the area and report back to your green with envy friends.
 

You can tell that summer is finally here when it’s festival time.  The surf music festival Sea Sessions is about to start tomorrow and Quiksilver are sponsoring the surf expression session, so we are expecting to see a lot of amazing maneuvers in the ocean.

 

Over in Bundoran, South Donegal the annual Sea Sessions festival will be running from Friday 24th to Sunday 26th June, with fingers crossed for some good weather, the event is set to attract thousands of people to see the bands and watch the surf.  ASP Europe has joined up with the event and is endorsing the first ever Irish speciality contest.  

 

Normally the only two ASP events in and around the British Isles are based in Newquay- The Relentless Boardmasters in August, and in Thurso- the O’Neill Cold Water Classic in April.  So the Sea Session surf competition in Ireland is a first for the country and for Europe. 

 

The contest is a ‘best maneuver takes all’ in the prize money, so there is a lot at stake for the surfers who are travelling from around Ireland and the UK to compete.  So far well known surfers such as Cain Kilcullan (IRL), Jayce Robinson (GBR), Oli Damas (GBR) and Alan Stokes (GBR) are set to compete, and will be joined by a host of other surfers all vying for the €5000 purse prize on offer.  A major bonus of the event is that the best Irish surfer will be given a wildcard into the Boardmasters competition.

 

Expect to see lots of aerial maneuvers and crazy turns on the waves as the surfers try to best each other for the prize.  It’s not about how big or great the wave is, but rather what the surfers do with the wave.

 

To check out what the festival is all about take a peek at the footage below for the competition that Sea Sessions were running for best home grown maneuver.  However, if the video isn’t cutting it and you fancy making your way over to the festival take a look at www.seasessions.com for more information... and then book yourself into our accommodation at Rossnowlagh Surf Lodge in Bundoran, where you can either learn to surf or brush up on your technique.  Sounds like an excellent way to spend a weekend...
 

In the sunlit waves of Ribeira D’Ilhas Julian Wilson (AUS) won the Quiksilver Pro Portugal yesterday.  The smooth as silk surfer defeated Brazil’s Gabriel Medina in the shoulder high conditions to claim his best result of the year on the ASP’s world tour.

 

Wilson beat Medina with a massive score of 19.37 to 12.83, showing the crowd and everyone watching online how to surf the pointbreak righthanders of Ribeira D’Ilhas.  Medina was out maneuvered by Wilson’s two 9 point rides, one which was a 9.5 and the other a near perfect 9.87, not bad for someone who came to the event by himself just looking to get through a few heats.

 

Quiksilver will be particularly pleased with the event’s results, as Wilson has been sponsored by them since he was a grom and appearing in the Young Gun films with  legendary Kelly Slater.  The boy’s done good.

 

After Quiksilver chose to hold a 6* contest last October in Ericeira everyone had been curious to see how the follow up event would turn out.  Bumped up to become a Prime event on the ASP’s world qualifying circuit, the Quiksilver Pro attracted some of the best surfers on the planet, and brought out our Euroforce of Ericeira’s own Tiago Pires, and Hossegor’s Marc Lacomare and Jeremy Flores.

 

 

Out of the Euroforce team it was Flores who managed to make it furthest, making it to the quarter finals only to be defeated by the in form Medina.  Other standouts in the quarter finals were Hawaiian John John Florence, who had recently recovered from a back injury at Pipeline, and Brazilian Miguel Pupo, who has now leapt up into the top 32 so should be joining the WCT at the mid year cut off.

 

Attention now turns to the next major events such as the ASP’s Prime contest Mr Price Pro Ballito, which will be running from 4th to 10th July at Ballito, South Africa, and the Billabong Pro at Jeffreys Bay (14th to 24th July) also in South Africa. The prime event will be critical in helping World Qualifying Series (WQS) surfers gain access to the World Championship Tour (WCT) events.

 

 

Look out for a good mix of the elite surfers mixed with up and coming surfers from South Africa and the WQS at the Mr Price Pro Ballito.  Check out the live coverage at www.mrpricepro.com, especially as it is only GMT+2 hours so wont require any late night sessions to watch it.  It will be the warm up for the WCT event at Jeffreys Bay that will be broadcast online at www.billabongpro.com/jbay11

 

If you missed the action at the Quiksilver Pro Ericeira, Portugal check out the clip below of the final and marvel at Wilson’s insane snaps.
 

One of the best things about a summer weekend is the chance to get in the ocean and not freeze to death.  After months and months of Arctic currents, the ocean and sea has warmed up enough for us to get in and have a play in a regular Spring wetsuit.  So what are we waiting for?

 

Even if the waves are on the non-existent front there are always water-sports to keep us all entertained.  After coming back the week from the land of lefts- Bali, I’m suffering from ocean withdrawal symptoms.  No amount of running, working out or yoga makes up for the fact that there is no surf near me.  So what am I going to do?  

 

In order to preserve my sanity and hopefully inspire fellow landlocked or wave deprived surfers, I’ve come up with a few ideas for getting into the water this weekend.  If you’re near a lake or even the flat sea, then why not try out something different like stand up paddle (SUP) boarding, wake boarding or jet-skiing.  

 

If there is a little bit of swell, then get the longboard out or even a bodyboard and get into the water.  There is nothing like getting into some salty water and some UV light on your skin.  Somehow even a shocking session makes you feel miles better than vegetating on the sofa.  

 

Whatever your water equipment of choice is, just being in the water helps your technique and understanding of the water for when you are next in the surf.  Your core muscles get strengthened and your positioning in the water will be helped by just playing on any board.  So make the most of having time this weekend, and get yourself wet- after all, the weather is rubbish at the moment, so we’ll all be getting rained on regardless.

 

If you really need some waves, can’t stand the weather or fancy improving your surfing, check out our new accommodation in at the Quiksilver Surf Camp in Hossegor, France for an amazing surf holiday destination this summer.