August 2009
Posted: August 18, 2009 by Francesca


Once you've learned how to paddle, how to catch a wave, and how to stand up on a surfboard, it's time to climb to the next level of waveriding. Although movies and cartoons depict surfers darting straight to the beach, arms outstretced like some spasmodic aircraft, the real aim of the beginning surfer is to surf along on the open face of the wave parallel with the beach , getting the longest possible ride with the greatest amount of speed.

Think before you paddle

You should decide which direction (right or left) you will ride as you begin paddling for an oncoming wave. Understanding and predicting wave behavior will come with time, but how you approach your drop-in will depend on the type of wave your are riding.

Types of waves

If you are surfing a mushy or sloping wave, then you may want to start angling to the right of left even while you paddle. To clarify, a mushy wave does not dictate that you follow your drop to the bottom of the wave. Angling mid-face is a more effective use of the wave's energy and helps you to stay ahead of the whitewater.

However, on a more critical or vertical wave, you need to face forward and cathc the wave before turning in order to avoid digging a rail(side) or nose(front) and thus falling during the drop.

Making your turn

The technique of turning the surfboard is relatively simple. While keeping a low center of gravity (legs bent at the knees),lightly lean your weight in the direction you choose and towards the wave face (but always keep your body centered over the midpoint of your board).This will push the rail into the water, cutting into the water and directing the board in the direction you choose.

Remember, wherever you direct your eyes, your board will follow, so look to the location on the wave you want to end up. Eye up a point down the line and stay focused on that point. Keep your body over the midpoint of your surfboard and lean slightly on your front foot, and you are on your way.

That's the beginners lessons over for now. One thing to also try to do is get fit before you start. Good luck catching your first wave!

Prev: Learn How to Stand on a Surfboard

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Posted: August 18, 2009 by Francesca

Learning how to stand is the most exciting step - first time you do it will be exhilirating!!!

But forget about the water for a moment...the place to start is the beach.

Lie on the sand (it's effective to lie on your surfboard on the sand but careful with the finonly if you can remove your fins to avoid damage) and do a basic push-up quickly. Once your arms are at full extension, pull both knees toward your stomach and hop to your feet. Whether you stand with your right foot or left foot forward will establish your membership into a long standing rivalry between regular foot and goofy foot surfers. Do this repeatedly to program your subconscious to be ready for what you will do in the water:

Step 1: Paddle for a wave, and just as you feel the momentum of the surfboard flow faster than your paddling speed, you are ready to hop up on your surfboard.

Step 2: With your hands firmly grasping each rail, push up quickly.

Step 3: Simultaneously, extend your arms completely (keeping your arms bent will make the board a bit unstable) and pull your knees quickly up to your chest. Be sure to keep your weight centered with just a little slant forward (leaning back is a natural tendency, but this takes away from your forward momentum).

Step 4: Place your feet firmly on your board, one foot near the tail (back) and one foot just above the midpoint of the board.

Step 5: Don't stand up completely erect. Keep a low center of gravity by crouching down and focusing your weight on the midpoint of the surfboard
.
Balancing on a surfboard is no different than balancing on a skateboard/snowboard or even a bicycle. Just keep your arms out and your eyes looking forward (remember: your surfboard will always follow your eyes and head, so focus on forward motion.

Prev: Learn How to Catch a Wave                                                                               Next up: Riding the Wave.


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Posted: August 18, 2009 by Francesca


Now that you've paddled out passed the breaking waves, it's time to get yourself one.

Again, be sure you are picking a small, mushy surf spot to get your initial experience.

Once you've made it to the lineup (where other people will generally be and the waves havent broken), sit up and straddle your board and sit just below the center-point of your board, so that you can easily swing the nose left or right when you see a wave coming.

Watch the waves to see how they are breaking and try and pick a point were you see ones that you can handle.

Pick one that has not broken and as it approaches, turn the nose of your board with your hands, your legs underneath, and your body so that you are facing the beach, lay down and begin paddling.

As you feel the wave lift you and your board, paddle as hard as you can and lean your weight forward. The natural tendency is to lean back to keep the nose from going under water, but that will only slow your momentum which in not conducive to wave-catching.

Lean forward but raise your chest so that your weight is just above the center of the board.

You should now be sliding down into the trough of the wave. The first phase of surfing will entail that you wait until you are in the flat water in front of the wave before you stand up. However, the ideal is to begin standing just as you feel the pull of the wave.

Prev: Learn How to Paddle                                                                                                   Next: Learn How to Stand


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Posted: August 18, 2009 by Francesca

Your thick, old board is under your arm and you've chosen a mushy, unpopulated spot for a surf. Time to learn how to paddle your surfboard.
Paddling your surfboard sounds so simple. However, in surfing situations, you are also balancing your body on moving water while getting knocked about by breaking waves. So remember to start small and go out when there are little to no waves coming in.

Your first step in learning how to paddle your surfboard is to walk your board out until you are in waist-to-chest deep water. Lay your body on the deck of your board, being careful to keep your weight centered on the middle of the surfboard. The natural tendency is to lean back towards the tail of the board, but this causes the nose to rise and creates resistance when you're trying to get moving.

Instead, keep your chest just above the center point of the board. Once you feel stable you are ready to get moving! Alternately paddle your arms with cupped hands. The more resistance you feel, the faster you'll go. As you hit bumpy water or "chop", lift your chest slightly and lessen your weight on the board so the nose (front) and rails (sides) don't go under.

Remember that you will be balancing your right and left sides, head, and legs all while you paddle your surfboard out to the lineup.

Next: Learn how to Catch a Wave

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Posted: August 18, 2009 by Francesca

We thought it was about time we wrote down a few tips on Learning how to Surf. If you have booked that surf holiday  or weekend off there is no harm in having a quick read of the ins and out of starting off  so that you can at least give it a real good go when you get first start.

We've consulted with Hawaiin ASP Surf Judge Jay Di Martino, and come up with 4 steps. Click on each of the below and start:

Learn How to Paddle

Learn How to Catch a Wave

Learn How to Stand Up

Learn how to Ride

Good luck!

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